I set out a week
ago on a visit to Kigali to look for business opportunities, make new contacts
and meet friends. I made all three and more. On my way back, I passed through
Kampala and visited Makerere, the famous University my father attended nearly
60 years ago. Africa has roots, deep roots. It has a rich past, but also a
glowing future. I have carried memories from Kigali that I look forward to sharing
with my grandchildren. Memories that no pictures can tell.
The city is actually set on many
hills and is spread out with the same pristine sense of deliberate order. The un-intrusive
presence of armed police and militia keeps a watchful eye on all that is going
on. Nairobi and Kampala drive on the left, Kigali drives on the right. I had to
stop and think every time I crossed the road. You will find all the top of the
range cars in Kigali as anywhere else in east Africa. The people are friendly,
but far more familiar with Kinyarwanda than Kiswahili, English or French. One
can sense there is a great deal of learning or relearning going on among the
populace. Nevertheless, one of the first things that caught my eye was the
proud, bold machined print on the back of a three-wheeled motorized truck –
MADE IN RWANDA! The people know who they are.
I can say that Kigali is a city
that has benefited from a new start. A new start because it is deliberately organized
and actually well groomed. There are well-arranged
royal palms throughout the main town on a hill. The town center does not have
the hustle and bustle you will find in other capitals in East Africa, but you
will find all the international business institutions you need.
Kigali has a national vision (2020). I did not analyze how far along they have
come along on their strategic plan, but as a visitor, I am very pleased with
what they have done to keep the environment clean. For one there are no flying
plastic bags. Moreover, I carried my shopping around in the romantic brown
paper bags that I had not used in three decades. Clearly, the Kagame government
was determined to give the country a new start.
I visited the Tutsi Genocide
Memorial. I could not complete that whole tour. Not because I did not have the
time. It is an emotionally draining experience. The horror of it is
incompatible with what you see in the city or even outside the fence of the
memorial grounds. The memorial needed to be set up. It is impossible to explain
to anyone how humanity can turn on itself and commit such atrocities. It is a
story that needs to be told and retold – lest we forget and let it happen
again. Other cities set up museums in which to hide their past. The memorial is
living history. It is in full view of the city. The picture of the city in this
article is taken from the grounds of the memorial.
I visited Nyabugogo the central
arrival point of all road transport into the city form eastern Africa. That in
itself is an experience. The transport park is a like a people exchange where
every language is spoken. Baggage, luggage and forex are also exchanged. The
small trader has business meetings in the tea kiosks and sells his wares to
whoever will buy – in any currency.
I also visited Nyarutarama. The
location of the plush and well heeled in society. Like every city, there are
prime places and other places, but in Kigali, everywhere is orderly and clean. I feel good about this city not because there
are rich and poor or that it has good roads and someone has a vision. No, I
feel good about this city because the people have chosen to face the reality of
their past and do something about the promise of their future. It is a city of
hope. A hope they want to pass on to their grandchildren. Kigali is set on a
hill as a beacon to remind those who doubt that if we look out from where we
are, if we look far enough and if we are willing to work hard enough we can all
live the hope we long for.
Allan Bukusi, Kigali